As a person who is passionate about ancient history and as a lover of historical sites and heritages, and as a traveller and tourist on a journey to amaze yourself by their magnificence, has it ever occurred to you to feel a strong sense of curiosity to discover the incentive behind building these monuments and carving these inscriptions. What motivated and drove our ancestors to leave such footprints of their existence? We might never find the answers to our questions, or we might not find them satisfactory if we do, but what we can do is to read about them, read about their stories, various or even contradictory narratives.
Kermanshah is considered a famous travel destination due to its pleasant weather, beautiful scenery and landscapes and its ancient historical sites. According to some statistics the number of the historical monuments in Iran reaches to about 4000. Which bring a sense of pride to the people of Iran, for having such rich history, filled with authenticity, and identity.
Sassanid bas-reliefs, which are widely seen all throughout Iran, flaunt the power and the glory of Sassanid kings. They had used every place in sight, as a means of an opportunity to boast their power.
Taq Bostan, is the subject matter in this article. We will try to briefly but accurately talk about this impressive and eye catching work of art.
Taq Bostan (Persian: Taq-e-Bostan, Kurdish: Taq Vah-San) is a collection of rock paintings and inscriptions from Sassanid era, and is located in west of Iran, in a village called Taq-e-Bostan, 9 km northeast of Kermanshah city. It was built in the 3rd century AD, and is historically and artistically noteworthy. Some historical scenes such as the Coronation of Khosrow Parviz, Coronation of Ardeshir II, Coronation of Shahpour II, Coronation of Shahpour III, inscriptions in Pahlavi script, soldiers hog hunting ceremony and female musicians playing harp, have been carved out of the cliffs in this area.
Taq-e Bostan was registered as one of Iran’s National Monuments in 1931.
Taq Bostan is pronounced Taq-Vah-San in local dialect, which is Kurdish. “Taq” means “Arch”, “Vah” means “made of”, and “San” means “Rock”. Put it together and you get “Arch made of Rock”. Many Iranologists, know and call it by the name of “Taq-e-Bostan”. Historians of the Islamic era, have also called it a few different names: “Shabdiz” by “Ibn Faghih”, “Qasr-e-Shirin” by “Yaghoot Mosta’sami and “Taq Vastam” by “Hamdollah Mostofi”.
There are many opinions regarding the history of this place. According to the book of “Moravvej-ol-Zahab”, Mansoor Khalaj considers this collection as one of the most fascinating historical monuments and believes that, about 13 centuries ago, Sassanid kings had utilized this area as their gardens. Arthur Christensen, also refers to
Taq-Bostan as Anahita’s Pantheon and believes that during Sassanid dynasty, from the first Sassanid kings, to Nersi (grandson of Yazdgerd III, who was also a Sassanid Kings), carved their pictures in the cliffs around Takht-e-Jamshid. But Ardeshir III (eleventh Sassanid King), and his successors chose Taq-e Bostan for their inscriptions. This place owes its lushness and prosperity to the mineral spring alongside of it. The main factor that played a role in choosing Taq Bostan was its geographical location in the middle of the Silkroad. An important trading route in Asia. West, east and south of Asia and also the east of Europe and north of Africa are connected to each other via the Silkroad.
As told above, some important historical events such as the Coronation of Khosrow Parviz, Coronation of Ardeshir II, Coronation of Shahpour II, Coronation of Shahpour III, inscriptions in Pahlavi script, soldiers hog hunting ceremony and women musicians playing harp, have been carved out of the cliffs in this area.
Taq-e Bostan consists of two connected vaults, carved out of the cliffs. One of the significant characteristics of this monument is that, no weeds can grow in them.
Taq-e-Bostan has three main parts. These parts include: Ardeshir II coronation ceremony, Big Iwan (vault), Small Iwan (vault).
Although the small vault has been less decorated than the big vault, but according to the archaeologists the small vault holds more value and importance than the big vault. Due to the fact that, this part contains inscriptions carved with Pahlavi script on both sides.
What makes this place unique is the detailed carvings on these iwans (vaults). They are considered to be one of the most detailed carvings that have remained of the Sassanid era. From their clothing, to the material of their clothes, clothes patterns, jewellery, hairstyle, body language and etc. Carvings of female musicians, proves the importance of art and music during Sassanid era.
A radiant arch, 9m in height, 6.5m in depth and 7.5 m width, is the most significant part of this monument. A horseshoe arch, sits on quadrilateral pillars on both sides. The frontal arch is circle shaped, the one in the back is oval shaped. The difference is due to height difference between the front and the back. At the back of the vault, you can see two half-columns sitting on a platform, which resemble byzantine columns. There are various theories, regarding the date of its construction. According to Ernst Herzfeld, a German archaeologist and Iranologist, it was built during Khosrow Shah II.
The interior walls are divided into two parts which are professionally decorated.
Trees are carved on the entrance pillars. These trees are called “The trees of life.”
Their arcs are decorated with floral patterns. The coronation of the Sassanid king is carved on the rear wall. The king is pictured with a three-faced head portrait and full-faced body portrait, standing on a platform, reaches out to Ahuramazda with his right hand. On his right hand side, a full-faced portrait of Ahuramazda is carved. And on the left a standing and full-faced picture of Anahita (Water Goddess of Persia), can be seen. The king is portrayed as a man with thick and curly hair at shoulder length (typical Sassanid hair style), chubby chicks, big eyes, thick and bushy eyebrows and his hand placed on the hilt of his sword. He is wearing a round earring and a necklace with two rows of pearls, with large pearls hanging in the middle. A w-shaped crown with sinuate incurving is on his head, which is also embroidered with two rows of pearls.
At the bottom of the wall a horseman is carved with a spear in his hand. According to historians, he is one of the Sassanid kings, Khosrow Parviz, riding his horse “Shabdiz”. According to some archaeologists, the graver intended to carve the king wearing a cloth weaved with gold threads in rhombus pattern.
Scenes from the hunting ground are also carved in the interior of the large iwan. On the right you can see a deer hunting scene. On the same wall, pictures of the King, mahouts, female musicians, cameleers and hunted deer are noticeable.
Hog hunting scene is pictured on the left wall, with 12 elephants, two men, two boats, two boatmen, with the king standing in the boat and female musicians playing harp.
Carvings from Qajar era can also be seen on top of the left wall. The carving is the picture of Mohammad Ali Mirza, wearing a w-shaped crown with sinuated incurving just like his father. An inscription has also been attributed to him, written in Nastaliq script, ordered by Aqa Qani and executed by Mirza Jafar Sangtarash. To the right of Mohammad Ali Mirza, Mirza Emad ol-Dole, to his right his son, Mohammad Hussein Mirza and in front of him Aqa-Qani are standing. A poem inscription had been carved to pay tribute to the Qajar king. These added inscriptions and carvings are thought to have damaged Taq Bostan, which according to some experts, clearly refers to the selfishness and greediness of the Qajar king, who attempted to leave a footprint of himself at the expense of damaging an ancient heritage. As Naser al Din Shah has written in his travelogue, these inscriptions have been horribly carved, are sickening and had spoiled the vault.
The radiant arch in the small iwan, is 5m in height, 6m in width and 3.5m in depth.
A circular arch sits on two quadrilateral pillars. The rear wall is divided into two parts, and on top of it, figures of Shahpour III and his father Shahpour II had been carved. Shahpour II is wearing a w-shaped crown with sinuate incurving, an earring and a necklace. His clothing is what seems to be a knee length and corrugated shirt, loose pants with a belt. There are two inscriptions attributed to each of the figures. Given that the figures’ faces have turned unrecognizable through the years, the only way to recognize them is to pay attention to the inscriptions. The inscription which belongs to Shahpour II is written in 9 lines and Shahpour III in 13 lines.
Ardeshir II’s coronation ceremony is carved on the right hand side of the small iwan, with same hairstyle, beard, eyebrows, earrings and clothing as the other figures. On the left wall Ardeshir II is pictured standing on a big lilies flower.
During Qajar era, Imam Qoli Emad ol-Dole, built a mansion around Taq Bostan. But the mansion had to be destructed in order to protect the ancient monuments of Taq Bostan. This plan was executed in 1963 by releasing the spring waters of Anahita.
It has been quoted that a carpet embroidered with jewellery were spread on the floor of Taq Bostan, which was looted during Arab invasion. Many harms and damages had been done to Taq Bostan during many wars and battles, especially during the presence of Stalin and the British.
There has been a lake in front of Taq Bostan for thousand years and provides water for acres of agricultural fields and also for the villagers.
In terms of weather, Kermanshah’s weather is warm and temperate. The best time to travel to this area is during May and June. But in case you’re not planning your travel to Iran, during high seasons, do not worry yourself at all. If you’re not bothered by hot or cold weathers, then you’re fine, but if you want to make the most of your trip, enjoying the beauty of nature, as well as the historical places, make sure you schedule your journey through Iran, during spring. To know more about the high seasons and low seasons for travelling to Iran, you’d better consult travel agencies, either located in Iran or anywhere you’re applying your Iran visa from. You can arrange your intercity trips in Iran, with local tours by Iran Negin Travel in order to enjoy your trip to Iran by highly knowledgeable and informative professionals.
No matter where you’re initial point of travel is in Iran, there are trains, buses and airplanes available to get you to Kermanshah. The road to Kermanshah is safe, if you’re planning to travel with a group of your Iranian friends and their personal cars or if you’re willing to hire a car to take you and your belongings to your destination. When you reach the city of Kermanshah, head to the northwest of Kermanshah city. A boulevard also called “Taq Bostan” leads you to the area where the monuments are located. Entry tickets are sold at entrance and the visiting hours are from 8 am- 8 pm.
You might also be planning to stay a few nights in Kermanshah, Either way, public transportation such as buses and taxis are available in Kermanshah, and most definitely to the famous sites. If you’re staying at one of the many hotels in Kermanshah, then you can ask Iran Negin Travel team to offer you some local Iran tours. You can then be registered if it fits your schedule and criteria.
The best option is to do all the arrangements via Iran Negin Travel, we will also recommend you some tours to make things even easier.
Taq Bostan hosts thousands of tourists who visit Iran and Kermanshah. Although Kermanshah is not much famous like Isfahan and Shiraz, many art and history lovers plan to visit Kermanshah and of course this beautiful and architectural sight.
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